CROSSING CONTINENTS - Kenya NARRATOR: It's nearly seven o'clock in the morning, but Daniel's already been up for over an hour. He's said his prayers, done his chores and been helping his mother looking after some of his six brothers and sisters. Daniel's fourteen but he's small for his age. He looks more like a ten year old, and I'm watching him as he does up the buttons to his short-sleeved light blue shirt, and even though it's falling apart, he does up each button with pride and a smile on his face. Daniel is getting ready to go to school for the first time in many years. He lives with his mother and his siblings in a shack that I'm standing in right now, and to describe it goes almost beyond words. This is no wallpaper and paint job. There are old pieces of material, torn up, hung around that represent the walls but Daniel is rushing me because he needs to leave and make his way through the streets and go off to school. So I'm just going to step outside. Daniel, just come over here for one second and let's have a chat before you go off to school. Just describe to me why it's important for you to go to school. DANIEL [translated]: So that I can be clever and be able to read well. NARRATOR: How do you feel because your friends are so much younger than you and smaller than you, because you're in Class 1? DANIEL [translated]: I feel bad because all the other children are younger and I'm older. They say I'm too old and I'm in Class 1. NARRATOR: What do you hope to be in the future then? DANIEL [translated]: I want to be an aeroplane driver, pilot actually. NARRATOR: What do you normally eat before you leave your house and start school? DANIEL [translated]: I take tea and if there is ugali, I eat ugali. Ugali is made of maize, it's kind of semolina. NARRATOR: Did you have ugali this morning? DANIEL [translated]: No. I'll eat it at home when I come from school. NARRATOR: So how hungry do you get during the day, because you won't have eaten all day long? DANIEL [translated]: I feel hungry, but I have to bear it because school is more important to me. NARRATOR: We're going to let you go and make your way. We're going to make you late, don't want to get into trouble from your teacher. DANIEL [translated]: Yes. NARRATOR: In this week's Crossing Continents, change in Kenya is what we'll be exploring. In our first story, I'll be travelling to two of the most dangerous slums in Kenya to find out how schools are coping with the thousands of children who flock to their gates, hungry to fulfil the promise of free primary education. For them, this is much more than a chance to learn to read and write: it means escaping crippling poverty and a chance to dream about a different future. Here we are at the Dagoretti Muslim Primary school. Daniel's anxious to get to class so he's pushing me out of the way. I'm just about to open the gates. I'm standing in the middle of a gaggle of school children, singing a local song by a local rap artist called Issa who sadly died in a car crash not too long ago, something - given the roads in Kenya and certainly the roads in Kawangware - isn't too surprising I suspect. I've just walked into Daniel's classroom and underneath my feet in the classroom there's a sort of red earth and just behind me is the blackboard where, at the age of fourteen, he's in a class with six year olds but he's excited to be here. And the sorts of things he's learning, just on the board they've got written down words like bag, boy, hen, pen, dress, house and funnily enough just outside the classroom, in the playground, we're joined by an entire audience of school children who are very excited and wondering who these visitors are from another place and another country. I'm first of all going to have a chat with Daniel's teacher who's going to introduce herself for me. RACHEL: I'm Rachel Nyokabideritu. I am Daniel's teacher. He is in Class 1 and he's fourteen years, actually he has been out of school because of the problems that has been there of payments but as a result of the free education, he's been able to come back to school and he's doing well. He's a good boy. NARRATOR: Is it difficult teaching him because he's fourteen and the others are so young, the others are only six? RACHEL: No, it is not because he seems to be very eager so he has no problem with being there because he wants to learn. NARRATOR: Do you remember the first day when he first walked in and all the little ones saw him, how they responded and how they reacted? RACHEL: Well, at first they looked at him whether he belonged here but with the time they got used of him and he treats them just as if they are sisters and brothers. NARRATOR: So, Daniel's doing well at school, but are the resources there to make the new government's free primary education policy really work? One good place to test this is the Olympic Primary School. It's got a reputation for excellence and sits just on the edge of Kibera, the largest slum in east and central Africa. Because of its reputation and the free schooling policy, the Olympic has had to take on hundreds more children than it's used to. Now a morning and afternoon shift system operates in the classrooms, just to be able to get through the huge numbers of pupils. TEACHER: Is this morning or afternoon? CHILDREN: Afternoon, teacher! TEACHER: I am the teacher, they are the visitors. Can you say good afternoon, visitors? CHILDREN: Good afternoon, visitors! TEACHER: Everybody! CHILDREN: Good afternoon, visitors! TEACHER: Good afternoon, sit down now. RUTH: My name is Ruth Namulundu. I am the deputy headmistress of Olympic Primary School NARRATOR: What I'm trying to get a sense of is how much more difficult is it to manage because there are so many more children? So in total how many extra students do you have? RUTH: 540 extra pupils in Strands 1 up to 3, and I am sure something will come out, out of this mess, some order will come out. NARRATOR: It is a mess then? RUTH: For now it's a mess. It's a mess. NARRATOR: Let me just have a quick word with the teacher. Can you just introduce yourself for me? TEACHER: I'm Mrs Iro. NARRATOR: And so how has your day changed with the free education policy? TEACHER: A long time ago we used to have one class in the morning and the same children would come in the afternoon for remedial work but now you see they cannot come in the afternoon for the remedial work, they give way for these children. So really they are not doing enough work. NARRATOR: And how difficult is it for you as their teacher? TEACHER: It's so difficult in that after teaching the morning session, you really get tired in the afternoon, and also reaching the children and knowing their names, sixty-five in the morning, now sixty-two in the afternoon. It's not easy. Also we cannot prepare. Now I am in class throughout. I just teach continuously, no lesson notes and it's really not good. NARRATOR: So you're not getting a break now during the whole day? TEACHER: At times you go for pee! But only the pee, that is when you get the break otherwise there is no break. NARRATOR: OK, I've just found a quiet spot on some mustard- coloured earth to talk to the headteacher. ANNA: OK, my name is Mrs Anna Nganga, the head teacher of Olympic Primary School. NARRATOR: How difficult did it get for you personally as a headmistress when flocks of parents turned up at your gate saying my child can now be educated, let her or him in? ANNA: The pressure was too much that I had to run away. Actually I stayed away for two weeks. NARRATOR: How many parents do you think ended up at the gates trying to get their children into this school? ANNA: We had about three thousand five hundred. NARRATOR: Three thousand five hundred! ANNA: But we took only six hundred. But when they entered the gate they went everywhere. You could find them everywhere. They remained here for two weeks. NARRATOR: And they just wouldn't leave? They were like squatters. ANNA: Yes, they didn't leave. NARRATOR: So you left instead? ANNA: I left instead. I left instead, till I got enough security because you know they couldn't understand that there is not enough facilities or enough teachers, so they decided to be wild. They even decided to take their children to the class themselves. NARRATOR: So they picked their children up and marched them to the actual classroom and sat them down, and said teach my child? ANNA: Yes yes, I am telling you. It was hot. NARRATOR: Hot? ANNA: It was hot. NARRATOR: Steaming hot? Steaming hot? ANNA: Yeah, it was very hot. And I had to have even the police force here and the director of city education, even the minister of education had to intervene. NARRATOR: So the Olympic has an amazing reputation and that reputation has been built by you personally to some degree. How worried are you about the quality of education for these children now that there are so many other kids to teach? ANNA: One major problem that we are having is that we added ten classes or ten streams and therefore we needed ten extra teachers, and up to now we don't have those teachers. If we have to go throughout the year without teachers, the standard will definitely go down. NARRATOR: And is it a price worth paying, to give children who have never had a chance to go to school some kind of education? ANNA: It is very very good because I support that fully, we all support that fully because there are some children who might have never gone to school at all and now they are learning. NARRATOR: And if things don't change, what do you think is the future for Olympic Primary School? ANNA: I believe it will change. I don't want to think of the bad things, negative things. I want to believe that there will be change but if there is no change, we will not be able to excel the way we have been doing. NARRATOR: The government has put a little more money into books and school equipment, and the British government has helped too. It's far from enough, say the critics, and then there's still a freeze on teacher recruitment. On top of that, there's now a very real prospect of existing teachers going on strike unless the government honours its promise to give them the pay rises which were agreed - but never brought in - way back in 1997. But for Daniel, and millions of children like him, free schooling is great news. For his mother Teresia, who leaves home at six each morning to look for menial work like washing other people's clothes, it's a real blessing. TERESIA [translated]: It's important for Daniel to go to school because then he gets to interact with people, gets to know how to speak English and he has a brighter future, and god willing, he will have the best in the future. NARRATOR: We're standing in your home which is a tiny tiny shack and my head is pretty much touching the ceiling. It feels like the walls are crowding in on us already. What does it mean for you that your son is going to school? Does it mean that you can live a different life, maybe move out of this particular home and have a different kind of life for you and your children? TERESIA [translated]: I wouldn't know of Daniel's future because we have separate lives. Everybody has his own gifts and he has a different gift from me. Because gift, it come from god. NARRATOR: Don't you hope though that because Daniel is going to school, maybe this will help all of your children and not just him? TERESIA [translated]: Yes, god could use him to help this household and all the members of this household. I am so happy about the free education but because initially when I took Daniel to school, there was a problem of the fees and because I'm out and in of jobs, I could not really sustain Daniel going to school but now I thank god for the free education. I am so happy and I hope that Daniel continues going to school. NARRATOR: Walking away from Teresia and her rundown shack, as she leaves to look for work, she's one of millions of Kenyans who haven't just got education on her mind. Tune into any local radio station, flick through the newspapers or walk through the slums of Kibera, and there's another subject on the lips of every Kenyan: corruption. The new government stormed into power on an anti-corruption ticket. They pledged to make fighting it their number one priority, but they had inherited a country where a culture of bribery had seeped into the very soul of Kenyan society, in the government, hospitals, schools, literally everywhere. So they encouraged ordinary Kenyans to take up arms in this new war. So I've come here to Naboco School, where two teachers are part of the International Anti- Corruption Theatrical Movement, and are using theatre as their particular weapon. I'm with Stephen Kariuki and Florence Maingey, from the International Anti-Corruption Theatrical Movement. Just tell me what the play was about? STEPHEN: The verse was about the transition of the old government and the new government. We were seeing what it was that the old government was doing to our country, and how the new, after the general election, how the new government came in and they started rectifying the mess that had been done by the old government. NARRATOR: Everyone is talking about corruption. Just describe to me some of the things that have happened during the old guard and the Arap Moi regime. FLORENCE: Kind of in Kenya during the former regime, we were subjected to a lot of fear and tension. It had become like kind of our tradition. It used to be like that, you know, when maybe a certain minister comes to your area and then you feel although you're very poor, down to the ground, you feel you have to prepare some gold, some money, some presents for him but you are very poor. So it kind of had become like we were very subjected to that kind of regime and we were also very submissive. Almost everything, every area within our country had gone wrong. STEPHEN: Probably you come to basic things like health, yeah? Health is very basic. Some money has been allocated to the health ministry, so the hospitals are supposed to have drugs but when you go to these hospitals you cannot be given these particular drugs unless you give something small even to the doctors, you see? So corruption had completely eaten into the fabric of our society but now immediately when the new government took over, you go to the hospitals, the medicine is there but it never used to be there. And this has happened only within a span of two months, so what is going to happen after a span of probably five years? So we expect a lot of changes in this country. NARRATOR: So the government has a pretty packed agenda, what with education and corruption. And even though it's very early days, it's already turned its attention to the death penalty. My next stop is Nairobi City Hall. I'm just about to step into the lift on my way up to see Rumba Kinuthia, the human rights activist and lawyer, who has waged his own personal battle against corruption in the legal system. He represented some of the twenty-eight prisoners who were released by the new government in February from death row, from the notorious Kamite maximum security prison. RUMBA: The whole system was ... only the people who didn't have money were convicted in most of these cases. If you had money you would more or less be able to buy your way out, even from very serious offences. NARRATOR: So just talk to me about the situation with death row. I understand that twenty-eight prisoners were released from death row a couple of months ago, and others had their sentences commuted to life. Just explain to me what happened in that situation. RUMBA: A good number of prominent people or well-known people have been murdered in the past mysteriously and what used to happen is that, due to the pressure of the government to come up with who the culprits were, they would pick at random some fellows who have been known to have a criminal record and then the fellow would be convicted to appease the mood of the people. These are some of the people who are released recently from death row. I know of at least three to four who are absolutely innocent but have been there for the last twenty years because somebody had to be convicted and they became the scapegoats. NARRATOR: The last time Gibson kissed his youngest daughter she was just four years old. He closed the front door, waved goodbye to the rest of his family and went off to work to his job as a sales assistant in the Banana Hills area, twenty kilometres outside Nairobi. He never came home that night. Picked up by the police, he was accused, arrested, charged and convicted of murder and spent the next sixteen years and eight months languishing on death row. On February 25th he was joined by twenty-eight prisoners and walked out of prison a free man, thanks to the new Kenyan government. I'm standing in his front garden, in the Banana Hills area, where he now lives with his brother, just getting ready to have a chat with him about his experiences in prison and what it feels like to be a free man and to feel the sun on his skin. GIBSON [translated]: He says he went through a lot of stress not knowing what the morning was waiting for because every time that he woke up he felt that he was going to the gallows, and again come evening he would feel happy but again the following morning the sorrow would return. Those of us who are on death row would sometimes be beaten thoroughly by warders at the flimsiest excuse. They would beat us with their batons, their official batons which they used and the beating would be so thorough. NARRATOR: And what sort of hospital treatment would you get after a beating like that? GIBSON [translated]: They didn't bother whether you were injured or not, nobody would bother to take you to hospital unless your relatives came and brought you medicine. NARRATOR: You lost sixteen years of your life in that prison. Are you bitter about that experience? GIBSON [translated]: I have very bitter memories of that because I was convicted but I was innocent. I do not even know anything about the assistant minister I was accused of having murdered. It is very very bitter. NARRATOR: Tell me about the actual day when you walked out of the prison. GIBSON [translated]: That morning we were counted as usual but after that, we were surprised to see a number of warders coming to us. They told us have no fear. If you hear your name, please walk out of this place. If you hear your name being called, please walk out. There was pandemonium. We were totally confused. It was unbelievable but generally I felt so happy, I felt like I have been given a new lease of life. We were given prison vans to escort us to our various destinations. I personally did not like the prison van and three more of my colleagues in jail followed me. We decided to take public transport and when I actually alighted from the taxi - we call them matatus - when I alighted from the matatu, I felt like I was in a different world because Nairobi had changed. I thought I was in London, I didn't believe it. A lot of buildings had come up. NARRATOR: What was the most surprising thing for you when you started walking around the streets of Nairobi again? GIBSON [translated]: I found so many cars on the streets, very clean people, very healthy people, a lot of buildings and the people I would see around were looking as if all of them were white men. They did not look as blacks so when I saw that kind of development, I felt like now these are whites, these are not Africans. NARRATOR: What's happened to the rest of your family, your children and your wife? GIBSON [translated]: While I was in prison, my wife developed breast cancer and subsequently died. When I got the information, I asked my brother whether he could take care of my children. At that time my brother didn't have a job so I advised him to send the children to Uganda where my auntie lives because life in Uganda is relatively cheap considering that there's a lot of food there. NARRATOR: I'm walking through the Karura forest, ten kilometres outside Nairobi. I've left behind city streets, the dust, the dirt, and the pollution, traffic and noise. Instead I'm surrounded by the rainbow green of the forest. Above me I can just see snatches of cloud coming through the trees' branches and monkeys making their way from tree to tree. I've come here to meet the legendary Professor Wangari Maathai, a staunch activist and environmentalist, and the founder of the Kenyan Greenbelt Movement in 1977. She's now the Assistant Minister in the Ministry of Environment. I've come here to ask her about her days as an activist and to challenge her about whether or not, now she's a politician, her activism days are over. WANGARI: We used to come here all the time and we would plant trees but this one time the people who had privatised the sections of the forest hired hooligans with whips and clubs and crude weapons, bow and arrows, to suggest that this is not organised crime but the minute we came in here, we caught policemen in full uniform consorting with those hooligans. And then of course we came into the forest and we were beaten mercilessly by the hooligans. NARRATOR: How badly hurt were you when you were beaten? WANGARI: Well I was pretty badly hurt on the head. Fortunately - and I thank the man who hit me - he hit me once and didn't hit me twice, which I'm very grateful for. But what I'm describing is a typical scene of what was happening during the Moi administration. But I'm really very glad to see at least the section where he was standing, as you can see it's an indigenous forest. It's a beautiful forest, it's a great heritage. We should protect it and the entire forest should be restored to this vegetation. NARRATOR: But the fact is that you are now sitting beside people who had been accused of raping the very environment that we're standing in, who had been accused of using land for political capital, using land to win elections, and there was a point at which you would always speak out against those very people and now you drink tea alongside them. How effective can you really be now that this is your position? WANGARI: Well I see what you mean. I know that that is something that is of major concern but there nevertheless is a commitment. NARRATOR: But is the commitment enough, do you think? WANGARI: Well I think so. I think the commitment is enough. NARRATOR: But doesn't Kenya need more than commitment, doesn't Kenya need practical action right now? WANGARI: Well we are seeing practical actions. For example we are seeing people who had been allocated land voluntarily and on their own surrender the title deeds that they had been given, and we have seen many people not come forward to claim land that they had been allocated. NARRATOR: You're now walking the corridors of power with the same people who grabbed that land. How does it feel when you pass people who may have been responsible for stealing masses of land that belongs to the Kenyan people? WANGARI: Well when I see those people come forward and say that I want to give up the land that I had been given, then I see a certain amount of change. NARRATOR: Are you at all worried that you too may be tempted by the trappings of power, the trappings of wealth, what comes with being in government? Have you become a politician now and stopped being an environmental activist? WANGARI: Absolutely not. They say that power corrupts. I certainly hope that I will not feel that I have power that corrupts me. What I hope is that I have now opportunities to do better than I could when I did not have power because every time I talked at that time, I was criminalised. I was vilified. But now I feel that I am vindicated. I am legitimate, I can speak and my people can say yes, she always spoke like that. I want to remain true to myself. I certainly hope that nothing, nothing is yet out there that is more important to me than what I believe in. NARRATOR: Professor Wangari Maathai has been an outsider for most of her life. Her staunch defence of the environment has prompted both love and respect from ordinary Kenyans, and hatred from previous regimes. She's now on the inside and her mere presence within the new government is a significant sign of the major political change that Kenya has gone and continues to go through. But there are those who are sounding warning bells, already saying that all isn't well within the new regime, as stories emerge of MPs awarding themselves hefty pay increases and interest-free car loans, and that isn't all. Kenya desperately needs tourism to boost its devastated economy, but the war in Iraq means the tourists are staying away. But such issues and stories have failed to dampen the mood of enthusiasm that has infected the streets, towns and villages. For those that live and work there, every time a boy like fourteen- year-old Daniel does up the top button of his threadbare school shirt, leaves his run-down shack, and walks through the school gates with his head held high and a broad smile on his under-nourished face, it's a reminder that some change has come – not just for those at the top but for all Kenyans.